18 Bahals of Kathmandu: Mahavihars of Acharya Guthi

The Esteemed Bajracharyas: A Newar Buddhist Legacy

Among the Newar communities of Nepal, a unique class of married priests known as Bajracharyas play a pivotal role. These individuals are deeply versed in the Vajrayana practices and rituals of Newar Buddhism. Often referred to as guru-ju or gu-bhaju, terms derived from the Sanskrit word ‘guru’, they embody the roles of both teacher and priest. The Bajracharya holds the highest rank within the Newar castes born into Buddhism, marking a significant status in their societal structure.

Mahavihars and Bahals: The Heart of Vajrayana Practice

Central to the Bajracharyas’ religious practice is the Mahavihar, a significant monastery that incorporates a Bahal or Baha or in Newari “बा:” or “बहा:”, a traditional Newar courtyard. This architectural feature is prevalent in Newari designs, with ‘Bahal’ directly translating to ‘courtyard’. The Mahavihar venerates Kwapa Dya as its main deity, indicating its spiritual significance in the community.

Acharya Guthi: The Guardian of Nepal’s Sacred Spaces

Acharya Guthi, renowned as Achaa Guthi, stands as a pivotal institution in preserving the spiritual essence of the Bajracharyas, a revered priestly class in Nepal’s Newar communities. This esteemed organization holds stewardship over an intricate network of 18 Mahavihars, also known as Bahals, situated within the heart of Kathmandu. These sites, steeped in religious significance, form the backbone of the Bajracharyas’ spiritual practices.

Kathmandu’s Spiritual Hubs: The 18 Mahavihars – Bahals

In Kathmandu, the 18 Mahavihars, synonymous with Bahals, represent more than just architectural marvels; they are vibrant centers of religious and cultural activities. Under the guardianship of the Acharya Guthi, these Bahals echo the profound impact of the Bajracharyas’ rituals and teachings. Each Mahavihar serves as a crucial node in the complex web of Vajrayana Buddhism, playing a central role in the religious life of the Newar community.

These sections highlight the significance of Acharya Guthi in preserving the religious heritage of the Newar community and emphasize the central role of the Mahavihars in the cultural and spiritual landscape of Kathmandu.

Exploring the Four Quarters of Acharya Guthi Bahals

The Bahals within the Acharya Guthi are systematically divided into four distinct quarters: Thane Puin (Uptown), Dathu Puin (Midtown), Layaku Puin (Durbar Square), and Kwane Puin (Downtown). Remarkably, even before the advent of modern urban planning, the Kathmandu Valley exhibited a well-structured arrangement reminiscent of Uptown, Downtown, Midtown, and Durbar Square. This historical segmentation not only underscores the profound religious significance attached to the Bajracharyas but also reflects the intricate tapestry of Newar Buddhist traditions in Nepal. Each of these quarters, with its unique historical roots and spiritual leaders, plays a pivotal role in preserving the rich and enduring legacy of Vajrayana Buddhism within the Newar community.

Thane Puin: Uptown’s Rich Legacy

The initial quarter, Thane Puin, which in contemporary terms corresponds to Uptown, is home to the renowned tantric teacher Wak Bajra Bajracharya (वाक बज्र बज्राचार्य) hailing from Kwa Bahal. This sector encompasses:

1. Kwa Bahal (Maitripur Mahavihar)
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   Kwabahal is the first name on the list and the oldest and most senior of the eighteen. Tradition holds that it was founded in the fifth century CE by Wak Bajra Bajracharya, whose meditation room still stands locked beside the shrine. Its Kwapa Dya is a standing Buddha that local people know as Maitreya. Read more…

2. Jhwa Bahal (Ratnaketu Mahavihar)
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   Jhwa Bahal stands second on the list, on Kusumbiyalachi road a few blocks northeast of Thahiti. It is not a single building but a complex of three walled courtyards in a row: the central one is the site of the original Jhwa Bahal, and the western one holds the building in use today. Read more…

3. Dhwaka Bahal (Henakar Mahavihar)
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   Dhwaka Bahal, called Dhoka Bahal by many local people, stands at Tyauda. Two chaityas in its courtyard date from the seventh century AD, placing Buddhist worship here in Licchavi times. It has two branches: Chhusya Bahal at Jyatha, probably the finest bahal architecture left in the valley, and Haku Bahal at Asan. Read more…

4. Gam Bahal (Hemavarna Mahavihar)
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   Gam Bahal sits in a small alley between Nagha and Tyauda, easy to walk past without knowing it is there. Its community still holds a land deed of N.S. 327, about 1207 CE, which names the monastery Gamthi Bahal and records the gift of a bahal with land for a garden. Its Kwapa Dya is an image of Akshobhya, facing north. Read more…

Dathu Puin: A Tantric Tradition in the Midtown

In contemporary terms, Dathu Puin is equivalent to what we now refer to as Midtown, and it is associated with the renowned teacher Surat Bajra Bajracharya (सुरत बज्र बज्राचार्य) hailing from Takse Bahal. This sector encompasses:

1. Takse Bahal (Suratshree Mahavihar)
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2. Jana Bahal (Kanak Chaitya Mahavihar)
   Jana Bahal is alternatively referred to as the Seto Machhindranath Temple, which serves as the sacred abode of White Karunamaya in the Buddhist tradition.
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3. Te Bahal (Rajakirti Mahavihar)
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4. Sawal Bahal (Mantrasiddhi Mahavihar)
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5. Mu Bahal (Mulashree Mahavihar)
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6. Itum Bahal (Kesh Chandra Mahavihar)
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7. Makhan Bahal (Ratnakirti Mahavihar)
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Layaku Puin: A Singular Spiritual Center in Durbar Square

In the third quarter, Layaku Puin, which is presently recognized as Durbar Square, is distinguished by the presence of the renowned teacher Lila Bajra Bajracharya (लीला बज्र बज्राचार्य) , hailing from Sikhamu Bahal. This section boasts:

1. Sikhamu Bahal (Shreekhanda Tarumula Mahavihar)
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Kwane Puin: Diverse Sanctuaries in the Downtown

Kwane Puin, known in contemporary terms as Downtown, is home to the renowned teacher Manju Bajra Bajracharya (मञ्जु बज्र बज्राचार्य) , also recognized as Jamana Gubhaju, hailing from Musum Bahal. Within this quarter, you’ll find the following:

1. Om Bahal (Brahmachakra Mahavihar)
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2. Mikha Bahal (Manisangha Mahavihar)
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3. Iku Bahal (Bajrasheel Mahavihar)
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4. Lagan Bahal (Kirtipunya Mahavihar)
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5. Musum Bahal 1 (Inner) (Manisingha Mahavihar)
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6. Musum Bahal 2 (Outer) (Manisingha Mahavihar)
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Baha Puja: Worshipping the Eighteen Bahals in Order

Baha Puja (बाहा पूजा), also called Bahal Puja, is a ritual in which Bajracharya priests go from bahal to bahal and worship at each one in turn. The map below marks the eighteen bahals of the Acharya Guthi in the order they are visited. The route starts at Kwa Bahal in Thane Puin, the uptown quarter, runs south through Dathu Puin and Layaku Puin, and ends at Musum Bahal in Kwane Puin, the downtown quarter. It follows the same north-to-south division of the old city that the Acharya Guthi itself is organised around.

Baha Puja is not tied to a fixed day. A family or group can sponsor one at any time of the year, and it is often held when a new bahal or chaitya is consecrated. At each stop offerings are made and the sangha of that bahal receives a share of the gifts. In the words of John K. Locke, writing in 1985, “the ritual is an expensive one and is seldom performed any more.”

Conclusion

In the heart of Kathmandu’s vibrant cultural landscape, the Bajracharyas stand as custodians of an ancient and revered tradition. As married priests deeply versed in the Vajrayana practices of Newar Buddhism, they embody a unique blend of spiritual leadership and scholarly knowledge. Their role is not just limited to religious functions; they are integral to the preservation and continuation of a rich cultural heritage. The Bahals and Mahavihars they practice in, spread across the city in a network of 18 sacred sites, are not just architectural landmarks but living centers of spiritual activity. These spaces, where the main deity Kwapa Dya is revered, are more than just physical structures; they are the beating heart of Newar Buddhist life, pulsating with the rhythms of ritual and devotion.

The division of the Acharya Guthi bahals into four quarters – Thane Puin, Dathu Puin, Layaku Puin, and Kwane Puin – each with its own distinct history and spiritual leaders, demonstrates the diversity and depth of Vajrayana Buddhism in this region. The Mahavihars, ranging from Maitripur Mahavihar in Kwa Bahal to Manisingha Mahavihar in both inner and outer Musum Bahal, form a complex tapestry that reflects the intricate spiritual and cultural landscape of the Newar community. These bahals are more than just religious sites; they are a testament to the enduring legacy and dynamic evolution of Newar Buddhism, guided by the wisdom and dedication of the Bajracharyas. As these sites continue to thrive, they ensure that the ancient teachings and practices of Vajrayana Buddhism remain a living, breathing part of Kathmandu’s cultural identity.

References

• Buddhist Monasteries of Nepal, John K. Locke, 1985